I bought this to use on my H&R Pardner Pump (a Remington 870 clone) so I could mount a light on the forearm. For seven dollars, this is a very handy item to have for any gun. It can be used with wood or polymer stocks and frames. You get:
1. The rail itself. It's hard polymer (plastic) and black. It has five grooves for centering your rail adapter / scope mount. It measures 2.55" long and 0.6" wide at the base, 0.835" wide at the widest part of the rail. It's 3/8" thick. The holes are spaced 1.2" apart, center-to-center.
2. Two bolts. They're black metal and use a 1/8" Allen (hex) key for adjustment. I got two of these rails, and no Allen tool was provided with either. They have enough LockTite already on them for one installation.
3. Two oval-shaped nuts. They're a grey steel and have a nipple coming from one end. This is the bottom; the nipple is supposed to sit in whatever hole you're using it in.
4. Brief instructions are printed on the enclosed card.
Everything is very high-quality. If you have a gun that doesn't have a Picatinny rail, this is an easy add-on. Even if there's no holes for it, you can just drill them. The accessories I tried - lasers, light, slings, even vertical forearm grips for a shotgun - mounted on and stayed there. Since the rail is plastic, you can cut it down to suit your needs. As far as my review goes, that's it. This is a great add-on for any gun at a great price.
However, if you plan to use this on a shotgun forearm...
The pre-drilled holes (on the rails you're ordering here) won't work on the Mossberg 500-series or Remington 870 forearm without some modifications:
1. First, you have to remove the forearm from the forearm rails (your manual might call them action rails, etc.). This is done by unscrewing a circular retaining ring from the front of the forearm, then pulling the forearm rails out the back.
2. Then, since the part of the rail that sits with the gun is flat and the bottom of the forearm is round, you'll have to trim some of the forearm to make a flat spot for the rail to not wobble on.
3. Line the rail where you want it, and drill the front hole.
4. The retaining ring for the forearm rails won't screw back on with the oval-shaped "nuts" so you have to trim (with a file or Dremel) one almost all the way to the nipple.
5. The forearm rails and retaining nut go on now. Get it as tight as you can without stripping the threads. It goes on now because the retaining ring WON'T go over the nut.
6. Screw that screw in and through the nut. Don't tighten yet.
7. The screw in the rear won't be able to go into a nut since it's right under the forearm rail and there's no space for the nut. So, drill a smaller hole. Once the rail is lined up where you want it, put some additional LockTite on the threads of the screw.
8. Using straight, positive pressure, screw the rear screw in. Get it tight, but be very careful not to strip it since you're screwing it into the plastic forearm and once you've stripped the plastic, it can't be used in that spot any more.
9. Tighten the front screw. No additional LockTite is needed here, but can be handy.
If you have large hands, you may want to trim off the rear portion of the rail, right behind the rear hole, so it doesn't jam your hand when racking the shotgun. This is easy with a saw; just sand off the end after you've cut.
| Item Package Dimensions L x W x H | 7.36 x 4.17 x 0.67 inches |
|---|---|
| Package Weight | 0.03 Kilograms |
| Item Dimensions LxWxH | 1.57 x 1.57 x 5.31 inches |
| Item Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
| Brand Name | Magpul |
| Color | Black |
| Material | Polymer |
| Manufacturer | RSR Group, Inc |
| Part Number | MPIMAG406BLK |
| Model Year | 2012 |
| Sport Type | Hunting |
